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In this article, we will learn about fragrance notes, the different notes distinguished in perfumes, and how long they are perceptible on our skin. Join us on a sensual journey through fragrance notes with Adex Cosmetics.
Each perfume bottle conceals from a dozen to several dozen different aromatic substances (essential oils) carefully chosen in accordance with the artistic vision of the creator, commonly referred to as a perfumer or “nose.” The phenomenon of perceiving scents is attributed to functional groups called osmophores that are part of the molecules of chemical substances. Often, aromatic substances are classified based on these osmophores. Groups such as esters, ethers, hydroxy, aldehydes, and ketones usually evoke pleasant fragrances, while groups such as thiols, thioethers, thioformyls, thiocarbonyls, and amines are responsible for unpleasant odors.
Fun fact: An example of a substance with a pleasant smell is benzoin aldehyde found in almond, ylang-ylang, and cinnamon oils. On the other hand, butanethiols, substances present in the defensive secretion of skunks, serve as an example of a substance with an unpleasant smell containing a thiol group.
Masterfully constructed, the composition unfolds its qualities harmoniously, eliciting pleasant olfactory experiences that evolve over time. Therefore, it is likened to a musical composition, where the arrangement of sounds, made up of individual notes or entire chords, is filled with fragrances. In such a composition, one can discover individual scents (referred to as fragrance notes) as well as entire harmonious groups (referred to as chords or fragrance families). The complexity and level of sophistication of the composition usually correspond to its price.
Perfumes reveal their fragrance. What does this actually mean? The release of individual notes and chords occurs in a specific sequence, related to the physicochemical properties of the aromatic substances the perfume creator used in their work. The olfactory character of the composition is often compared to the construction of a pyramid, at the apex of which gather the most volatile oils constituting the top notes. They are the beginning of olfactory impressions and a kind of “prelude to the composition,” as well as the “business card of the perfume.” These notes appear immediately in the initial phase of application. Typically, they are fresh, intense, and energizing citrus oils, often combined with notes of other fruits and sometimes flowers or green parts of plants. They are perceived for the shortest duration (usually from a few to several minutes).
In the middle part of the pyramid, the heart notes are located, which usually reveal their full strength after the top notes gradually subside. This part of the composition lasts much longer. At this stage, the fragrance has the greatest dynamism and intensity, lingering on the skin for even several hours. Heart notes present the main theme of the entire composition and define its original style. Spices, woody scents, sometimes mixed with floral or innovative fragrance molecules developed by the leading creators of the perfume industry, usually make up the heart notes. The combination of individual aromas defines the fragrance family and can indicate the dominant scent of the perfume.
This entire structure is based on the pyramid, hiding the base notes. Although they do not have such an intense aroma, they last the longest (even up to several hours) because this set usually contains substances characterized by a long evaporation time and good sorptive properties towards the substrate on which the perfume is applied. They constitute the background of the entire composition and serve as an indicator of the perfume’s longevity. The process of composing the entire “olfactory composition” begins precisely with the base notes. Depending on the chosen olfactory direction, perfume creators often like to place heavy and warm scents such as patchouli, amber, musk, civet, vanilla, resins, wood, and leather there.
Perfumes are a complex mixture of aromatic substances possessing osmophore groups, which are responsible for the effect of perceiving scents. These substances are carefully selected and refined to bring pleasant olfactory experiences during their gradual release. The emerging fractions of scents are referred to as fragrance notes or chords.
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